Early Medieval - Gold and Garnet Belt Set > Lot No. 838

Description:
Circa 5th century AD. A beautifully crafted Gothic belt set in gold with inset garnets; the dished loop with six inlaid garnet cloisons; the carinated tongue inset with a quadrangular garnet cloison at its base, the front curved to respect the leading edge of the loop; the plate pierced with three rivet-holes; from its leading edge a tab encircling the loop and running behind to marry with the rear rivet; on its front surface a beautiful cabochon garnet; the tab or strap end formed as a D-shaped plate with rectangular extension pierced to accept two rivets, its front surface decorated with three inlaid garnet cloisons, the lower oval and the others sub-rectangular and curved to respect the lower.

Measurements:
9.57 grams, 31.26 mm (buckle); 3.26 grams, 19.98 mm (tag).

Condition:
Extremely fine condition, superb and undamaged. The survival of the complete set of garnets within their cells is uncommon; while the gold cellwork is often complete, the adhesive paste degrades and allows the stones to work free.

References:
The elliptical plate is found on a number of items from this area, such as the example from Kerch-Yenikale (Menghin, I.8.12) and in combination with garnets on the loop (Menghin, I.9.10.3) and on the tongue (Menghin, I.17.6).

Provenance:
From an old English collection.

Comments notes:
Cloisonne work of this quality is associated with the Germanic and Hunnic cultures to the north of Black Sea, especially the Goths but also the Gepids and Vandals among others.

Estimate: £3,000 - 5,000 (EUR 3,580 - 5,970; USD 4,750 - 7,920)

Auction date: Thursday 9th September 2010 at The Swedenborg Hall 20-21 Bloomsbury Way
London WC1A 2TH

Sold for: £4,400